Replacing a toilet is one of the most manageable plumbing DIY projects for Ontario homeowners. It requires no soldering, no cutting pipe, and no specialized tools beyond a wrench and a bucket. A standard toilet replacement takes 1–2 hours from shut-off to first flush. This guide covers everything from removing the old toilet to installing the new one with no leaks — whether you're upgrading a dated builder-grade toilet in a GTA home or replacing a unit that has finally given up.
Before diving in, check out our full bathroom renovation cost in Ontario guide if you're planning broader changes around the same time, or our kitchen renovation cost GTA guide if the bathroom is part of a larger project.
⚠️ Ontario Plumbing Permit Note
In Ontario, replacing a toilet with an identical connection — same floor flange location, same supply line connection — is generally considered a "like-for-like repair" and does not require a plumbing permit. However, moving the toilet to a new location, or installing a toilet where there was none previously, requires a licensed plumber and a plumbing permit from your municipality. If you have any doubt about your situation, call your municipality's building department before starting work.
What You'll Need
📦 Materials
- New toilet (most kits include tank, bowl, and seat)
- Wax ring (standard 3" or 4" outlet; get one with plastic horn if flange is below floor level)
- Two 5/16" closet bolts (usually included with toilet or in tank-to-bowl hardware kits)
- Flexible toilet supply line (12"–16" braided stainless, $8–$20)
- Teflon tape (plumber's tape)
- Two plastic bolt caps and washers (usually included)
🔧 Tools
- Adjustable wrench or channel-lock pliers
- Utility knife (to cut old caulk or remove old wax ring)
- Putty knife or scraper
- Bucket and old towels (for removing remaining water from bowl)
- Sponge
- Safety glasses
GTA Toilet Pricing (2026)
Toilets in the GTA are widely available at Home Depot, RONA, and Lowe's, as well as plumbing supply houses. Here's what to expect to pay:
| Item | Low | High |
|---|---|---|
| Toilet — basic 2-piece (Glacier Bay, American Standard entry) | $160 | $280 |
| Toilet — mid-range 2-piece (American Standard, Toto Drake) | $280 | $500 |
| Toilet — one-piece (cleaner profile, easier to clean) | $400 | $900 |
| Comfort height / ADA height (add to any tier above) | +$50 | +$100 |
| Bidet seat attachment | $90 | $400 |
| Wax ring | $8 | $18 |
| Braided supply line | $10 | $25 |
| Plumber (if hiring out) | $250 | $600 |
| Flange repair kit (if needed) | $15 | $40 |
💡 Comfort Height vs. Standard Height
Comfort height toilets (sometimes called "ADA height") have a seat height of 17–19 inches — closer to a standard chair height. They're increasingly popular in GTA renovations, especially for homeowners over 50 or anyone with mobility considerations. If you're already replacing the toilet, the cost premium is modest ($50–$100) and worth considering.
How to Install a Toilet: Step by Step
Shut Off Water and Empty the Tank
Locate the shut-off valve on the wall behind or below the toilet. Turn clockwise until fully closed — it should stop with firm resistance. Flush to empty the tank. Hold the handle down to drain as much water as possible. Use a sponge to absorb the remaining water in the tank bottom (there will always be some). Disconnect the supply line from the bottom of the tank — have a small bucket or old towel positioned underneath, as some water will drip from the line and the tank inlet.
Remove the Old Toilet
Bail as much water as possible from the bowl with a cup or large sponge into a bucket. Pop the plastic bolt caps off the base — pry with a flat screwdriver. Unscrew the closet bolt nuts. If they are corroded and won't turn, use a hacksaw to cut them off. Rock the toilet gently side-to-side to break the wax seal, then lift straight up. Old toilets are heavy — a standard 2-piece toilet with tank weighs 50–80 lbs. Remove the tank first if needed to reduce the lift weight. Lay the toilet on its side on cardboard or old towels to protect your floor.
Prep the Flange
Stuff an old rag into the floor drain opening to block sewer gas from entering the room while you work — this is important, particularly in older GTA homes where drain venting may not be perfect. Remove all old wax from the flange and the surrounding floor with a putty knife. Inspect the flange carefully: it should be intact and sitting at or slightly above the finished floor level. A cracked or broken flange needs a repair kit ($15–$40) before proceeding — a toilet bolted to a broken flange will rock over time and eventually break the wax seal. If the flange sits more than 1/4" below the finished floor, use an extra-thick wax ring or a waxless toilet seal (e.g., a Fernco Wax-Free toilet seal, approximately $40).
Install New Closet Bolts
Slide the new closet bolts into the slots in the floor flange, one on each side. Position them approximately 6.5" from the centerline of the drain — this is the standard rough-in measurement that aligns with the bolt holes in nearly every residential toilet. Set them parallel to the wall and equidistant from the drain center. Most flanges have slotted tracks that allow you to adjust the bolt position — get them straight and symmetrical before moving on.
Install the Wax Ring
Remove the rag from the drain. Press the wax ring onto the bottom of the toilet outlet (the horn) — the wax should face down when the toilet is right-side up. Some installers prefer to press the ring directly onto the flange instead; both methods work. Position the toilet directly over the flange, aligning the bolt holes on the toilet base with the closet bolts sticking up from the floor. Lower the toilet straight down. Do NOT rock or shift the toilet once the wax ring first contacts the flange — any lateral movement at this stage compromises the seal and you will need a new wax ring.
Seat and Secure the Toilet
Apply firm, even downward pressure on the toilet to fully compress the wax ring — sit on the toilet seat or press down firmly on both front corners of the bowl. You'll feel the toilet settle as the wax compresses. Hand-thread the metal washers and nuts onto the closet bolts. Tighten with a wrench, alternating sides as you go — left a quarter turn, right a quarter turn, repeat — just like tightening wheel lug nuts. Tighten until you feel solid resistance and the toilet doesn't move. Do not over-tighten — toilet bases are porcelain and will crack. Check that the toilet sits level and does not rock in any direction. Cut off the excess bolt length above the nuts with a hacksaw, then press the bolt caps into place.
Connect Water Supply
Wrap 2–3 layers of teflon tape clockwise around the threads of the shut-off valve outlet. Attach one end of the supply line to the shut-off valve (hand-tight, then 1/4 turn snug with a wrench) and the other end to the fill valve inlet at the bottom of the toilet tank (hand-tight, then 1/4 turn). Slowly open the shut-off valve and immediately check both connections for drips. Let the tank fill completely, then flush 2–3 times. After each flush, check the floor around the base of the toilet — no water should appear during or after flushing. If you see water at the base, the wax seal has failed and the toilet needs to be reinstalled with a new wax ring.
Caulk the Base (Optional)
Whether to caulk the base of a toilet is a genuine debate among plumbers. The argument against caulking: if the wax ring fails and the toilet leaks, an uncaulked base allows water to escape onto the visible floor surface immediately — you catch the problem before it damages the subfloor. The argument for caulking: a caulked base looks cleaner and prevents bacteria-laden mop water from accumulating under the toilet over time. If you do caulk, use a 100% silicone bathroom caulk in white or almond and leave the back of the toilet base unsealed. That gap gives any future leak a way out before it causes hidden damage.
💡 Leak Check Protocol
After installation, flush 5–6 times over the course of an hour and inspect under and around the base after each flush. Check the supply line connections at both ends. Place a folded piece of paper towel under the supply line connections overnight — any drip will show up as a wet spot. A toilet that passes 24 hours of normal use without showing moisture at the base or connections is properly installed.
Total Cost Summary
| Item | Low | High |
|---|---|---|
| Toilet (standard 2-piece) | $160 | $280 |
| Toilet (mid-range) | $280 | $500 |
| Toilet (one-piece) | $400 | $900 |
| Wax ring | $8 | $25 |
| Supply line | $10 | $25 |
| Plumber (if hiring out) | $250 | $600 |
| Flange repair kit (if needed) | $15 | $40 |
A DIY toilet replacement using a standard 2-piece toilet with a new wax ring and supply line runs approximately $178–$330 in materials. Hiring a plumber for the same job typically costs $250–$600 in labour alone, on top of materials. The DIY savings are significant for what amounts to 1–2 hours of straightforward work.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I install a toilet myself in Ontario without a permit?
In Ontario, replacing a toilet at the same floor flange location with an equivalent connection is generally considered a like-for-like repair and does not require a plumbing permit. However, moving the toilet to a new location or installing one where there was none requires a licensed plumber and a permit. If you are unsure, a quick call to your municipal building department will give you a definitive answer for your specific situation.
How do I stop a toilet from leaking at the base after installation?
A leak at the base is almost always a failed wax ring seal. Common causes: rocking the toilet after the wax ring first contacted the flange (which breaks the seal), using a standard wax ring when the flange sits more than 1/4" below the finished floor, or not applying enough downward pressure to fully compress the ring. The fix is to remove the toilet and reinstall it with a new wax ring — wax rings are one-use only and cannot be reused after compression. Never attempt to re-seat a toilet on a used wax ring.
Should I use a wax ring or waxless toilet seal in Ontario?
A standard wax ring works reliably for the vast majority of installations and is the most common choice in Ontario. Use an extra-thick wax ring or a waxless seal (such as a Fernco Wax-Free Toilet Seal, approximately $40) if your floor flange sits more than 1/4" below the finished floor — a standard ring may not bridge that gap reliably. Waxless seals also allow minor repositioning after initial placement, which standard wax rings do not permit.
How do I know if my toilet flange is damaged before installing a new toilet?
After removing the old toilet and cleaning away the old wax, inspect the flange closely. Look for cracks or breaks in the ring, missing sections of the flange collar, corrosion or rust through a metal flange, and the flange sitting more than 1/4" below the finished floor. A cracked or broken flange allows the toilet to rock over time — that rocking eventually destroys the wax seal and causes a leak. Flange repair kits that bolt over the damaged flange and provide a new anchor surface cost $15–$40 at any GTA home improvement store and are straightforward to install.
Can I install a toilet alone or do I need a second person?
Most homeowners install a toilet alone without difficulty. Removing the tank separately from the bowl first reduces each lift to a manageable 20–40 lbs. The step that benefits most from a second person is lowering the bowl precisely onto the closet bolts while keeping it aligned over the flange — but this is quite manageable solo with patience. If back problems or mobility are a concern, have a helper available for the lift. Attempting to lower a full 2-piece toilet (tank still attached) alone is the one scenario where a second person is genuinely useful.